Italy

Kuen Hof - Peter Pliger

Bressanone

Winemaker: Peter Pliger

Viticulture: Sustainable

Meeting Peter Pliger is an experience. One first has to get to Italy's most northerly DOC zone, the Valle Isarco (or Eisacktaler) and make for Bressanone, past mountain streams and up glacier-sculpted sub-alps towards Mahr. When one sees restored vineyard plots supported by traditional dry stone walls, low pergolas, a 12th century heritage-listed cellar and some happy dogs, the nirvana of Germanic varietals expressed Italian style has been reached. Then, a warm handshake from the man and a glint from eyes that are as blue as the sky above.

Here, at Kuen Hof, the former Zen student is leading Italy's way in sustainable viticulture, a man at one with himself, eschewing rigid ideas or supposed truths in favour of exploration and experimentation. Peter has the courage of his convictions and the sensitivity to work in the least invasive way and to capture that which nature offers.

What is sustainable? Organic; biodynamic? He is neither and he's . . . he's very hard to categorise. Peter is himself. He uses wild yeasts, but if they don't do the job, he adds selected ones. Fermentation temperatures are natural, grass grows between the rows and no chemical synthetic products are used, but some copper sulphate in the vineyards and sulphur dioxide in the cellars are considered necessary.

This year, we have Sylvaner and Gruner Veltliner, both fermented in a combination of stainless steel and large 'botti'. They are 'secchi, secchi' – (bone dry) – but loaded with pure, rich fruit, plenty of extract and alcohol. They cut across the palate like a sword, but the flavours linger for longer than could ever be thought possible. In their own way, unique and, as Gambero Rosso declared this year, 'sheer poetry'. Availability is very limited as we receive just 25 dozen from Peter.

Wines
Veltliner DOC (SOLD OUT)
Sylvaner DOC (SOLD OUT)