Montalcino
Province of Siena
Established: 1984
Owner: Paola Gloder
Winemakers: Paola Gloder & Paolo Vagaggini
Production: 120,000 bottles
Hectares of vines: 32.5
Viticulture: Natural
Paola Gloder has been at the helm of Poggio Antico since its inception, when her father purchased the original 20 hectares in 1984, back when Montalcino had just a few dozen wineries. Here are Montalcino’s highest-rising vineyards, 380 to 430 metres above sea level, southwest of the famed medieval citadel. The unique location and altitude provides the best of both worlds: the sun-drenched hillside terroir south of Montalcino is conducive to power and opulence, while the vineyard’s elevation delivers cool evening temperatures which promote superb bouquet and mellow harmony. The wines are structured for extensive cellar life yet are elegantly charming in their youth.
The 1995 vintage was a major turning point in Montalcino. It was the year that Brunello ageing regulations were reduced from five years to four years (with a minimum of two in oak) and it was also the year that Paola decided to produce two dynamically different Brunellos – the more classic, larger barrel and longer-aged Brunello (following the traditional three years in oak) and the modern, tonneaux-aged ‘Altero’.
The wines are from the same selection of fruit, and handling is identical up until maturation. Fermentation is in 80-litre truncated cone-shaped stainless steel tanks that allow for manual punch down and gentle extraction by avoiding the use of pumps. The two wines make for a fascinating comparative tasting that is guaranteed to start debate over preferences.
Wines
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG ‘Altero’