Italians have an unbelievable appetite for bollicine – sparkling wine. In fact I think that the ‘any time of day’ aperitivo was invented as a reason to enjoy a glass of something sparkling – Prosecco, Franciacorta, Lambrusco, spritz and the list goes on. But they love Champagne, especially from the small growers. At the very cool ristorante Dama Bianca in Duino, in the Carso region of Friuli, the Vouette et Sorbee Extra Brut Fidele was so good that we had to try the Rose version, purely for educational reasons. Two outstanding Champagnes with great character, served as they should be in great big glasses that allowed for full expression of the wine. The food was beautiful, from the first of the season cuttlefish to a great plate of crudo.

At home, I drink Bellavista from a wine glass because the wine has such beautiful floral and white stone fruit aromatics, a flute seems to just dumb it all down. I don’t expect the Moet tent at the Cup to ditch the flutes tomorrow, but what about a movement for real glasses for real sparkling wine in our restaurants. Who’s with me?